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  1. #1
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    Default Building from scratch - anyone want to share ideas

    Hey guys, might as well introduce myself. I'm Tommy Samuels, aka Too Busy and I like building stuff. Current project on the drawing board is F600 / FMod car based loosely on the Novablade.

    I'll be looking in and asking a lot of questions on parts sourcing and fabrication.

    My plan is to build something similar to the Novablade design but based on a 2009 ZX6R. If the engine doesn't get approved I guess I'll be a Formula S / AMod. Right now I'm in the drawing and parts collecting stage while I finish resto-modding my 64 Mini

    Tight Lines.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Sounds like a fun project, and so does the mini! If you aren't already planning on it, you may want to just take look at any number of places that offer tube/panel cutting based on CAD assemblies. It's been a huge time/headache saver in the past for us!

  4. #3
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    Thanks. Tube cutting I've got covered. Chop saw and bandsaw get a workout on my projects. I can fishmouth a tube with and angle grinder by eye with very good accuracy. One of the skills acquired in a welding program.

    Machined parts will be my time killer. Limited access to the lathe and milling machine at work. Good news is I have a couple of long time friends through work with water jet and laser jet capability. hope I don't stress those friendships too much during this build.

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    major things to consider are the oil and water cooling and oil pan design. Are you planning on going straight back from the motro to the axle?

  6. #5
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    I am planning on going straight back. Looking at a couple of different car it seems the jackshaft design has some advantages, but (in my mind) not enough to justify the extra work and expense.

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    I'm just finishing up a heavily modified RF80 frame. Try and think ahead as far as possible, especially as far as driver ergonomics and the cockpit. Make/mock up the seat and controls as early as possible, before tubes are final welded. It's easy to box yourself in a corner. I made the mistake of sizing the opening without roll bar padding, making egress very difficult with pads installed ( your hips don't "squeeze" at all ! ). Also, enough room for arm steering clearance, and obviously leg room. Leave some room lengthwise so you can adjust the seatback angle as needed without fouling on the bulkhead. Keep in mind, according to an Indycar study, a more upright seat of 45° or more is safer in a frontal impact.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by stephen wilson View Post
    I'm just finishing up a heavily modified RF80 frame. Try and think ahead as far as possible, especially as far as driver ergonomics and the cockpit. Make/mock up the seat and controls as early as possible, before tubes are final welded. It's easy to box yourself in a corner. I made the mistake of sizing the opening without roll bar padding, making egress very difficult with pads installed ( your hips don't "squeeze" at all ! ). Also, enough room for arm steering clearance, and obviously leg room. Leave some room lengthwise so you can adjust the seatback angle as needed without fouling on the bulkhead. Keep in mind, according to an Indycar study, a more upright seat of 45° or more is safer in a frontal impact.
    Thanks Stephen,
    I learned the hard way about building myself into a corner on my first Lotus 7 copy. I bought a "kit" thinking it would make life a little easier for a first build. The set of size constraints engineered into the kit nearly drove me nuts.
    I had to cut out and replace the engine crossmember, widen the tunnel to fit my bellhousing, and section and lengthen the toe box to accommodate my big feet.

    There will be some wood mock ups before the first piece of steel is cut.

  9. #8
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    Default Dumb question #1

    Where are a couple of good places to source the rear axle? Cutting splines on steel tube really isn't my forte.

  10. #9
    Member Sully's Avatar
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    Most rear axles just use a 1/4" key way. No splines necessary.

    My Red Devil axle is 1.25"dia x 44" long.
    http://www.bmikarts.com/Axles_c_194.html
    Nick Sullivan
    F5 #92
    '97 Red Devil T-27
    facebook.com/SullySpeedShop twitter.com/SullysSpeedShop

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Busy View Post
    Where are a couple of good places to source the rear axle? Cutting splines on steel tube really isn't my forte.
    If you could use a aluminum axle, I would suggest looking at hyper racing or one of the minisprint guys. You can can the complete axle for less than what you wold spend on a f500 style axle. I wish SCCA would allow aluminum axle in our class, not for a performance advantage but rather a cost savings and availabilty standpoint.

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  13. #11
    Contributing Member Jnovak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clint View Post
    If you could use a aluminum axle, I would suggest looking at hyper racing or one of the minisprint guys. You can can the complete axle for less than what you wold spend on a f500 style axle. I wish SCCA would allow aluminum axle in our class, not for a performance advantage but rather a cost savings and availabilty standpoint.
    Write a letter Clint. Just point out the facts, numbers etc.
    Thanks ... Jay Novak
    313-445-4047
    On my 54th year as an SCCA member
    with a special thanks to every SCCA worker (NONE OF US WOULD RACE WITHOUT THE WORKERS)

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  15. #12
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    Default alum axles

    I can't believe this wasn't allowed YEARS ago, anything that can be taken from a popular car class that is better and less expensive seems like a no brainer to me, particularly in view that thousands of cars have used these axles over time ,versus 100 or so f5/6 built over the past 10 years.
    Dave

  16. #13
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    Well, I'm still in the drawing stages of my project.

    Honestly, looking at parts I think the smart move is to buy a F500 and build a new back 1/2 for the 600 motor.

  17. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Busy View Post
    Well, I'm still in the drawing stages of my project.

    Honestly, looking at parts I think the smart move is to buy a F500 and build a new back 1/2 for the 600 motor.
    Tommy,

    I race an F500 (2007 Red Devil) and live in Charlotte. I know Summerville is a few hours from Charlotte, but you are welcome to take a look at my car if you are ever in the area.

    Cory

  18. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Busy View Post
    Well, I'm still in the drawing stages of my project.

    Honestly, looking at parts I think the smart move is to buy a F500 and build a new back 1/2 for the 600 motor.
    That is by far the quickest lowest cost way.
    Thanks ... Jay Novak
    313-445-4047
    On my 54th year as an SCCA member
    with a special thanks to every SCCA worker (NONE OF US WOULD RACE WITHOUT THE WORKERS)

  19. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jnovak View Post
    That is by far the quickest lowest cost way.
    I just picked up Todd Beddick's F500 this afternoon along with a whole truck full of spare parts.

    I think I'll drive the snot out of it the rest of this year on the local / regional autocross opportunities before I make any changes.

  20. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Busy View Post
    I just picked up Todd Beddick's F500 this afternoon along with a whole truck full of spare parts.

    I think I'll drive the snot out of it the rest of this year on the local / regional autocross opportunities before I make any changes.
    Excellent and smart move.
    Thanks ... Jay Novak
    313-445-4047
    On my 54th year as an SCCA member
    with a special thanks to every SCCA worker (NONE OF US WOULD RACE WITHOUT THE WORKERS)

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