Compomotive Turbo wheel O-rings

[johnhafkenschiel]

I have some 13" Compomotive Turbo wheels that I am reconditioning. Anyone know a source and the dimensions of the seal rings? By my measurement, they are about 3.75mm CS by 275mm ID.

[Charles Warner]

Go to a local bearing supply/O ring/hydraulic supply house and order whatever length you need. Cut to fit and join with a bit of sealant.

[Rick Kirchner]

Great minds think alike! I was just going to post on this topic. I have 12 FF rims from a 84 VD and the previous 8 numb-nuts owners have foisted a number off ills on these rims. It looks like someone in the past used a goo instead of an o-ring. I need some instruction on re-build procedure and a parts source.

Looks like at least one owner used a rim clamp machine and a hydraulic shoe to break the beads, and what's not gouged is bent.

[Jerry B.]

Hi Rick....

I use the local o-ring house in Anaheim or you can try McMaster -Carr. They call it o-ring cord...in bulk rolls. McM has a nifty plastic block ""splicing jig" with all the metric and American diameters ..slide the cord in and razor cut for a true 90* cut then assemble the cord ring with cryo glue. Here's the part # 9462K2. They also have splicing kits with cord.

JB

John..............\/ \/
inch o-ring material..... .070"
.103
.139
.210
.275

metric...................... .059"
.079"
.098"
.118"
.138"
using crush statistics you might look at the Parker o-ring manual.

[Steve Demeter]

Check with Ddave W. He does not use o rings in his modular wheels if I recall previous threads correctly.

Bolt em together with clean and dry flanges (o ring provides another opportunity for them to work and the bolts to loosen) and then fill the "v" where the rim halves and center meet with high temp rtv. let cure and go racing.

YMMV.

[Brian]

Check with Ddave W. He does not use o rings in his modular wheels if I recall previous threads correctly.

Bolt em together with clean and dry flanges (o ring provides another opportunity for them to work and the bolts to loosen) and then fill the "v" where the rim halves and center meet with high temp rtv. let cure and go racing.

YMMV.

I use Steve's method. Keys are don't get any sealant between the wheel halves, and let it cure fully before you mount a tire. I've built a lot of wheels and haven't harmed a single O-ring...

Brian

[Phil Creighton]

Mcmaster Carr 4mm - they have a higher heat version material.

[johnhafkenschiel]

Not wanting to make my own, I contacted Compomotive and requested the parts or a source. They no longer make modular wheels, do not supply the parts and their supplier "has long since gone".

James at Compomotive added:

It is possible {assuming that the hub center hasn’t been corroded} to reassemble and seal the wheel without the o-rings however as long as the silicone sealant round the rims sections is done carefully.

[Phil Creighton]

As a former distributor for the racing compomotives from 82-88 I can tell you that the O rings where pretty iffy from the factory where they were glued together. We often had to redo them with a razor blade and super glue.
The biggest issue with the wheels as they age is over inflation to fit and seat tires as it deforms the spun rim halves. This breaks the seal and its rarely good long term. We have had some success in lightly straightening the deformation round the bolt holes with a rubber hammer on an anvil. Then silicone the inside of the wheel
Phil