Hello,all
Had a quick question about dry sump tanks should i run baffles or not needed.The tank i have is a rectangle style tank taller than wider any advice would be great Thanks Dave
Hello,all
Had a quick question about dry sump tanks should i run baffles or not needed.The tank i have is a rectangle style tank taller than wider any advice would be great Thanks Dave
Dave,
All the tanks I've built are baffle-less (no baffles). The trick is tall and skinny. I've written some stuff up on the things to check. I'll send it over to you on your email.
I'm working on a universal dry sump tank that could bolt to the engine via generator stand flange. A prototype is being tested by Allan Adderly in a Caracal C (I consider the toughtest production type FV application (read no room).
Bill
Bill Bonow
"Wait, which one is the gas pedal again?"
Thanks for the info bill,i am also fitting the tank to a caracal.The car we have is Jim Smalley's old car (blue and red).The tank i have is a speedway motors tank that i cut two inches out of depth seems to fit very well now,but the original baffles would need a lot of fabrication to fit back in.If don't need to run them that would work out much easier.
If the original tank had them, and you still have them, why would you not find away to use them, or most of them, or some of them? The original designer/fabricator put baffles in it for a reason.
Greg Rice, RICERACEPREP.com
F1600 Arrive-N-Drive for FRP and SCCA, FC SCCA also. Including Runoffs
2020 & 2022 F1600 Champion, 2020 SCCA FF Champion, 2021 SCCA FC Champion,
2016 F2000 Champion, Follow RiceRacePrep on Instagram.
Without really looking at the tank, I'd agree with Greg. If your tank had baffles, I'd sure try to use what was designed for the tank.
Bill Bonow
"Wait, which one is the gas pedal again?"
I was just trying to get feedback as it will tank some fair amount of fabrication and time to get the baffles to fit back in to the now narrowed tank.I think i will try to get them back in.Thanks for all the info Dave
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