Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    10.06.07
    Location
    Madison Wi
    Posts
    67
    Liked: 0

    Default Welding 4140 to 4130 tube

    I want to make some tube ends for some aero tube. I can't seem to find any 7/8 thick rectangular bar stock in 4130. There is lots of 4140 stock available, so is this safe to do? Is the extra carbon going to make things to brittle?. would it be better to go the other way, and use 1020? I've welded 1020, and SS to 4130 with good results but never 4140. I'd like to hear from some folks that have experience welding these two alloys together.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member ghickman's Avatar
    Join Date
    04.20.07
    Location
    Alpine California
    Posts
    1,192
    Liked: 273

    Default I'd opt for 1018

    I'd opt to use 1018 mild steel for a weldment like this. I've built 100's of a-arms for everthing from Atlantics to Off Road cars using 1018 weldments....works just fine.

    GH
    Edge Engineering Inc.
    FB #76

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    08.18.02
    Location
    Indy, IN
    Posts
    6,285
    Liked: 1877

    Default

    E70 0r E80 rod. Pre-heat. Post draw.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    10.06.07
    Location
    Madison Wi
    Posts
    67
    Liked: 0

    Default

    Mr Hickman, what welding rod do you use for welding 1018 to 4130? Depending on what a costumer spec'd, I've used mild steel, 4130, and 309L rod.

    Thanks for the replies

  5. #5
    Senior Member ghickman's Avatar
    Join Date
    04.20.07
    Location
    Alpine California
    Posts
    1,192
    Liked: 273

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fatoldman7 View Post
    Mr Hickman, what welding rod do you use for welding 1018 to 4130? Depending on what a costumer spec'd, I've used mild steel, 4130, and 309L rod.

    Thanks for the replies
    I prefer ER70S2 filler rod for this type weldment. I've also used ER70S3 but can't tell any difference in the weld.

    GH

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    05.05.06
    Location
    Olalla, WA
    Posts
    755
    Liked: 141

    Default

    Check ralt.co.uk, they may have the parts already built for you.

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    07.07.06
    Location
    chicago
    Posts
    93
    Liked: 26

    Default welding 4130

    when tig welding 4130 to 4130 or 4130 to cold rolled 1018-1020, i use ER70S2. I have seen 4130 in large reqtangular sizes to make machined pieces, but it was cost prohibitive to use. Use CR 1018-1020. You will run the risk of cracking in or near the weld zone with 4140. Sometimes i will use ER80S2 for parts that will be heat traeted.
    nick fuhs

  8. #8
    Senior Member brownslane's Avatar
    Join Date
    11.09.07
    Location
    Markham, Ontario
    Posts
    890
    Liked: 8

    Default Agree

    Quote Originally Posted by last View Post
    when tig welding 4130 to 4130 or 4130 to cold rolled 1018-1020, i use ER70S2. I have seen 4130 in large reqtangular sizes to make machined pieces, but it was cost prohibitive to use. Use CR 1018-1020. You will run the risk of cracking in or near the weld zone with 4140. Sometimes i will use ER80S2 for parts that will be heat traeted.
    nick fuhs
    4140 is specifically designed for machining and hardening after. Heat application will/may harden the welded area, so stay away.

    Tom

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    06.29.02
    Location
    Plano Texas
    Posts
    182
    Liked: 1

    Default

    4130 comes in tubing and sheet in the normalized condition. It does not deep heat treat. 4140 comes in bigger sections and is indeed intended for machining and deep heat treat. Serious folks fabricate from 4130 tube and sheet welded to machined sections od 4140 using a heat treatable filler. This is followed by stress relieving and heat treat to around 32C. That's how we did it building parts for our Indycars at Truesports.

    I weld 4130 tube and sheet to machined 1020 because I'm not going to heat treat it and the 1020 is free machining. I preheat thicker 4130 sections and draw out the weldment, letting it air cool slowly. On the rare occasions that I choose to machine from 4140, I pre and post heat it always. Cold material in thick sections, no matter what the ferrous alloy, acts to chill the weld and causes underbead cracking.

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    10.06.07
    Location
    Madison Wi
    Posts
    67
    Liked: 0

    Default

    One more question....

    First, thanks for all of your replies, you've all been very helpful. I just received my welding rod and I have a few more questions. My welding supplier sells ESAB rod, and I assumed I would get ESAB rod but, I got an off shore brand instead, it's ER70S-2 rod. What concerns me is that it is copper coated. It's been a few years since I've welded CrMo, but I do seem to remember that copper coated rod, was not the best rod for welding CrMo or mild steel. I wish I could connect a few more grey cells together, and remember why, but it's been a few decades,and I can't recall the particulars. So, is this the right rod, and is copper coated rod OK?
    Last edited by Fatoldman7; 08.12.10 at 2:14 PM.

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    07.07.06
    Location
    chicago
    Posts
    93
    Liked: 26

    Default

    yes , copper coated is ok to use for 4130 and or 1018. As long as its ER70 S2 , and you can trust the source. Best yet also is when its stamped on the rod.
    nick fuhs

  12. #12
    Contributing Member Pop Chevy's Avatar
    Join Date
    10.12.09
    Location
    Sarver, Pa
    Posts
    848
    Liked: 27

    Default

    Yup ! You got the right rod. Been buying it for years and it has always been coated. I work on antique and custom Harley frames including moly drag bike frames and swingarms, thats the best rod I found. I called S+W Race cars once(they build rails, funny cars, etc) thats what they use.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  




About Us
Since 2000, ApexSpeed.com has been the go-to place for amateur road racing enthusiasts, bringing together a friendly community of racers, fans, and industry professionals. We're all about creating a space where people can connect, share knowledge, and exchange parts and vehicles, with a focus on specific race cars, classes, series, and events. Our community includes all major purpose-built road racing classes, like the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) and various pro series across North America and beyond. At ApexSpeed, we're passionate about amateur motorsports and are dedicated to helping our community have fun and grow while creating lasting memories on and off the track.
Social