Set up help

[bryancohnracing]

Here is the deal:

I plan to run at least one SVRA event with my Royale Club Ford in 2007. They require the Dunlop vintage tire of course, so I need basic set up info for the Dunlops.

I normally use Hoosers, and plan to switch back and forth depending on the event I plan to run. Sounds like fun huh???

Thanks for any and all help!

[bob darcey]

Bryan:

Here's a generic starting point, results may vary. Someone with a Royale may have more precise info:

Front camber: neg .5 to 1 degrees
Rear camber: straight up to neg .25 degrees
Front toe: 1/16" total toe out
Rear toe: 1/16" total toe in
Front pressure: 15-16 psig hot
Rear pressure: 16-18 psig hot

I think you'll find the Dunlops to be a lot of fun to drive on, more drifting, less carving.

[bryancohnracing]

From the looks of things, the starting point for both tires is very close.

That'll make life a bit easier!

[Hawke]

We run the Dunlops here in Australia in historics. What seems to work on my Hawke (and others who have Royales) is:

3.5 front camber, 2.5 rear.

3-4 mm per side front toe out,
1-2 mm per side rear toe in,
14 psi cold front rear, going to 16psi hot.

[Brian]

I tend to run camber in the middle of those two suggestions, about 1.5 on the front and 1 on the rears. Which suggests it's not overly critical, and do some tire temps after you get going. You definitely want the insides hotter than the outsides by about 10 degrees. the rest I agree with, you can tune the corner turn-in with the front toe out. I look for 18 psi hot, btw.

Brian

[Comp89]

Here is what Van Diemen recommended in 1981 for their VD81 on Dunlops:

Camber: Front = 3/4º neg Rear = 5/8º
Caster: Front = 6º
Toe in: 1/16" in on each wheel
Tyre pressure: 16psi front and 20psi rear for dry... 25 all arond in wet....
Spax shocks to be set at 2 turns in front and 1.750 turn rear....

[Michael Rand]

Brian, as I state on my slightly earlier post under the WDC CF thread, I am committed to Dunlops for everything I am doing this year.
All my research to date, mostly the OFFC guys who have been more than helpful and encouraging, agrees that the static setup will not be much different, if at all.
However, diameters/radius's are a different matter. At the very least ride heights will need to be reset. Diameter of the Dunlop front is 21.7", Goodyear's are 20.6, so at least 1/2" taller radius, certainly will require resetting. Rear are Dunlops 23" vs Goodyear's 22.4".
It remains to be seen if that quarter inch +/- will mean altering ratios, but there seems no question ride heights will need to be corrected. Without adjustment just bolting a set of Dunlops on will result in a nose high car. Some may enjoy that, I personally prefer tail high.
That is in fact a large part of my decision to just stay on the Dunlops. I am lazy, and if I don't have to keep changing gears and screwing around with alignments I will always take the path of least resistance. Rod Kendall and others say they are as fast as Goodyear 600's, allowed in NARRC CF, so why change ?
I have no Hoosier experience or data but believe they are very similar dimensionally to Goodyaers. That'll get someone yelling about a tenth of an inch or something....
Should be fun, heading CF straight ahead to the past on treaded bias ply tires. I can't wait.

[Roux]

I seem to recall there being two types of Dunlops. One that is much harder and more durable than the other? Which one are we yacking about here? If we say, "use any one you like", then we get into trouble at some sanctioning bodies, but not others. Which one is it? 9092 or the 476? What do the Canadian guys want and the newer vintage clubs that allow CF's. There is in my opinion still more work to do on this one

Here is what I found at SASCO, although the text may be as old as ten years ago.

COMPOUNDS Compounds available for Dunlop vintage racing tires are the traditional 204 (hard) and 484 (somewhat softer). Generally heavier, more powerful cars use the harder compound for longer life, while lighter cars choose the softer 484 compound. FIA rules for pre-'66 cars require the 204 compound to reduce suspension load, as do the rules for the HMSA in the U.S. Dunlop Formula Ford tires come in the traditional 9092 spec compound (medium) and in the new softer 476 compound. The FFord 476 tire has been tested to be 1 to 1.5 seconds per lap faster than the 9092. Formula V tires also come in the 476 compound. Goodyear contemporary tires are available in a range of compounds as shown in the spec sheet. Please inquire as to recommendations.

FORMULA FORD
The Dunlop 135/545-13 and 165/580-13 CR82 tires in the 9092 compound have been the spec tires for Formula Ford racing in the UK. They are also the spec tire for Monoposto RacingÀs Formula Ford class again in 1997. These are excellent tires of modern construction and compound. They last very well with drivers getting a year of life. We recommend them for Formula Fords, Formula Juniors, sports racing cars and production cars where rules allow them. The SVRA allows the135/545-13 to be used in Group 1 and both tires to be used in Groups 2, 3, 5, 6, 7 and 8.

[Rob McClelland]

Brian,

The OFFC guys run the 9092 compound. That choice meshes in nicely with the vintage clubs (such as VARAC, VRG, SVRA, VSCDA etc) that subscribe to the Monoposto rule book.

Hope this helps.

Rob McClelland

[Michael Rand]

Steve Roux, et al,
Just off the phone with SASCO re Dunlops.
They think you somehow linked to an old version of their site, as your post mentioned the information was dated 1997.
The current Dunlop FF situation is as follows:
There is only one tire available for Formula Fords, it is the 9092 in the CR-84 tread pattern. The 476 compound is no longer available.
The 9092 is indeed the specified tore for the Ontario Formula Ford Championship, the Quebec Pro Races, the Monoposto Vintage FF class, as well as CF cars allowed in VRG and other vintage/historic organizations.
So Steve, good point but fortunately not an issue in 2007. Consider whatever "work" needed to be accomplished as accomplished.

[bryancohnracing]

I plan to run the Dunlops all season as well, save for one weekend at Heartland (if I make it there) as running Dunlops at a National might make me a moving chicane and I'm enough of that already!

I plan to do a complete set up on the car and duplicate my current settings as a starting point so in theroy (I love living in theroy) I can have a stable platform to start with, as that's what I had on the Hoosiers.

I'm kinda lazy myself these days too, so I don't worry much about a 1/10 of an inch of ride height or getting my corner weights exactly even. Hell, the car doesn't have adjustable shocks, it has soft springs and if I'm lucky I get to race two or three times a year. Not exactly a recipe for lap records now is it??

Too bad Midiv has an ope ntire rule in CF. It'd be interesting to see how the Dunlop measures up against the Goodyear 600 or Hoosier R60.

[lenhart05]

Bryan,
Are you racing more cen-div now? Since I sold my FF, I'm interested in putting the dunlops on the tiga. What races are you thinking about doing? We may be able to get a few cars out there racing on threaded tires.

Tad Lenhart

[bryancohnracing]

My travel schedule includes 16 regular season NASA events plus the NASA Championships in September, plus 1 Heartland National to crew for Mark Blythe.

My racing has to fit in with all of the above!

My current plan is to run St. Louis at the end of March (the car is in storage there so it's an easy race) and then see what time I have. I'd love to do some racing in the area but it's all up in the air. I am going to use Dunlop's no matter what I do.

I'm betting they'll be damn close to Hoosier R60's or Goodyear 600's.

I'm looking for shop space in Milwaukee, but I'm also not rushing as time to move is also at a premium. Damned if I do, damned if I don't.....

Work just gets more and more in the way of my racing these days....