'93 Reynard Atlantic

[tonyc]

I recently acquired a Reynard 93H Atlantic and I wanted some information on anything in particular I should look out for with this car. I owned a 75 Chevron for 20 years, and needless to say the Reynard is much newer technology. I plan on going through the car over the winter, and aside from the obvious of cleaning, inspecting, crack testing and painting, I was wondering if the more experienced members could help me out.

Charlie W.? Agnif? (I tried to call you at least 20 times but I guess you rarely answer the phone in your shop). Other Reynard owners?

Thanx much
tonyC

[Charles Warner]

Tony,

My area of knowledge is the 89/90H model. I'm sure there is some crossover but the gent to contact (he reads this site) is John Repar. Been racing one for eons.

[Jonathan Speed]

Actually the guy you really want to speak to is Randy Cook from Palo Alto, CA. He used to post on this forum, look at some older topics and you will find him. He races a 93H and placed fourth a couple of years ago at the Run-Offs. Great guy very helpful and not afraid to help a fellow racer! Probably runs the fastest Reynard on either coast.

[tonyc]

Thanks guys. I will try to contact Randy and John.

The biggest difference between what I'm familiar with (the older aluminum monocoque cars) and my new atlantic is the tub construction. I guess I'm more concerned in a general sense of the things I need to know about a carbon tub. What areasare most critical? What do I look for when inspecting? How do I check the integrity of pick-up points? Inserts? etc...

Another thing is tires and wheels. I have both 13 inch and 15 inch wheels for my car. Aside from making adjustments for ride height when switching from one set to the other, should there be big differences in set-up?

[dchesrown]

Check the tub where the battery box is located. This is a spot of weakness on the tub. On both of my cars we had the tub reinforced in this location. My cars also came with complete manuals that had many tech updates from Reynard as the car was developed, how to set the car up etc.... I gave the books to the new owner of the cars. If you don't have the book track one down.
David

[tonyc]

Thanks for the info Dave. I'll surely check this out. I have a manual and am still going through it. Do you have any parts left over from your cars? Do you have any photos? I am trying to figure out if the side pod bodywork has been modified on mine. Any info would help. Thanks again,
Tony

[M.L.Sauce]

I had 5 92-93 Reynards and I ran them in the Players Series for 3 years.Neat cars great tub,tough to set up.But very fast in the right hands. Mike Sauce

[Charles Warner]

Thanks guys. I will try to contact Randy and John.

The biggest difference between what I'm familiar with (the older aluminum monocoque cars) and my new atlantic is the tub construction. I guess I'm more concerned in a general sense of the things I need to know about a carbon tub. What areasare most critical? What do I look for when inspecting? How do I check the integrity of pick-up points? Inserts? etc...

Another thing is tires and wheels. I have both 13 inch and 15 inch wheels for my car. Aside from making adjustments for ride height when switching from one set to the other, should there be big differences in set-up?

The only way to check the condition of the tub, including the pick up points and inserts, is through X-Ray. There's a lady in Indy who can do this. Normally the weakest points may be the front pick up points as they are stressed with any wheel banging or shunts. The 15" wheels are the pro series wheels. I'd stick with the 13" for ease of set-up. Changing wheel sizes definitely requires a different set-up. I believe radialsn are needed for the 15" wheels.

[D.T. Benner]

The newset Good/Year radials (15") work very well on Swift 014's and like most radials they seem to last a long time and NOT degrade (slower lap times) even after 6-8 or more heat cycles. Something that saves money for a club racer. As for seting up a 93 Reynard to run on them could be a job? Changing back and forth to 13" would not be an option without big setup changes. Radials lke lots of camber.

[tonyc]

Check the tub where the battery box is located. This is a spot of weakness on the tub. On both of my cars we had the tub reinforced in this location. My cars also came with complete manuals that had many tech updates from Reynard as the car was developed, how to set the car up etc.... I gave the books to the new owner of the cars. If you don't have the book track one down.
David

Dave,

I

[tonyc]

Check the tub where the battery box is located. This is a spot of weakness on the tub. On both of my cars we had the tub reinforced in this location. My cars also came with complete manuals that had many tech updates from Reynard as the car was developed, how to set the car up etc.... I gave the books to the new owner of the cars. If you don't have the book track one down.
David

Dave,

The bottom of my tub has been skinned in aluminum. There's a sheet that is screwed through the bottom of the tub through into inserts placed on the inside along the floor. I don't know if it's also epoxied to the floor, but if not, I imagine that this would be an improvement I should make. Of course, if it's only screwed, I need to remove it first to assess the strength of what is there first. Any thoughts?

Thanks
tony

[Charles Warner]

Tony,

I'm not sure if the 92/93h is similar to the 89/90h, but check to see if there is a carbon floor. The 89/90h only had that aluminum skin attached to the bottom and REQUIRED the addition of a carbon floor that Mike Demsky makes - two piece insert. Without a full carbon floor (at least .500 thick) bonded in the car will be way too flexible.

[M.L.Sauce]

If you have a 92-93 Reynard and there is an aluminim piece under the tub, it is there to allow you to install the jabrock on the bottom of the tub.If this is not what that aluminum is for you have a 89-90 Reynard which is a modified F3 car for FA. The tubs on the 92-93 Reynards were very nice. They were thicker and stronger than the Ralt tubs.The battery box weakness had to do with over tightening the battery hold down and pulling the inserts throught the tub floor.The Reynard FA were neat cars in my opinion but they needed more developement with the taller front tires that were introduced in 95.The cars have too low of roll center in the front.The taller tires and wheel set ups that came later on only would have helped the roll center issue.

[tonyc]

If you have a 92-93 Reynard and there is an aluminim piece under the tub, it is there to allow you to install the jabrock on the bottom of the tub.If this is not what that aluminum is for you have a 89-90 Reynard which is a modified F3 car for FA. The tubs on the 92-93 Reynards were very nice. They were thicker and stronger than the Ralt tubs.The battery box weakness had to do with over tightening the battery hold down and pulling the inserts throught the tub floor.The Reynard FA were neat cars in my opinion but they needed more developement with the taller front tires that were introduced in 95.The cars have too low of roll center in the front.The taller tires and wheel set ups that came later on only would have helped the roll center issue.

Mike,

As it turns out, there are two pieces of aluminum. A central one, which runs from below the central bulkhead (below the driver's knees) to the rear of the tub where it is held up to the tub by an 1/8" strip of aluminum about two inches wide that runs across the trailing edge of the tub. This is the piece I think you are referring to as being the one where the jabrock would be attached. The lateral edges of this piece are designed to serve as the inboard support for the tunnels from front to back. I think that someone has added the second sheet of aluminum. This runs forward of the first piece starting from under the footbox (which is slightly higher than the main floor), backward across the transition to where the floor is lower, just covering about an inch of the forward edge of the central sheet. It appears that this was added after an offroad excursion. It covers a 1/4" deep divot (about 1/2" wide and 2 inches long) toward the outer edge of the bottom of the tub. I guess I'll have this checked out by someone who does carbon work. As for the rest of the floor, it appears thick and solid, even where the battery mounts are (not pulled through). Should I make up a piece of Jabrock (the plank) to attach the center piece of aluminum? If so, how thick, and can you recommend a source?

Thanks so much for your help and advice.
Tony

[M.L.Sauce]

Tony- The jabrock we used was rectangular and completely covered the flat portion of the underside of the tub right to the side pods.

[Wally Butler FA#68]

Hi Tonyc,

Great to hear another Reynard may get on the track! I own s/n #002 and don't race nearly as much as I would like. Previous posters suggested Randy Cook is the "man" and that is correct. I have his contact info. Randy purchased all the 92/93H stuff from Reynard when they went out of business. He continues to develop.

Randy and I have molds for most pieces including the 'marconi' designed tunnels and gearbox extensions.

My tub does not have an aluminum floor panel, just all carbon. I have installed a complete width/length jabrock cover as Mike suggested. The floor does get beat up in that location because of a step in the tub and it's the first place to hit when contacting curbs or off track excursions.

Would be happy to chat.

Wally Butler
Reynard 92H s/n 002

[tonyc]

Wally,

Thanks so much for the help. I am currently going through the entire care and am finding alot of little things but fortunately nothing major. I plan to cover the bottom of the tub as you and Mike have suggested.

I also was wondering what CV joints and wheel bearings this thing uses. I've seen similar technology on a friend's older F1 car I've worked on for many years, but I was hoping to find out the details.

Can you send me any photos? My car appears to have modified side pod bodywork, and I haven't seen another so I don't know what the standard set-up looks like. Also, I'd like to get in touch with Randy, so if you could pass along my contact info I'd appreciate it.

You can call me at 860-355-1403.
Thanks, Tony

[eboucher]

I crew for Randy and would be happy to pass on your contact info if you've not spoken with him yet.

Best Regards,
Eric

[stonebridge20]

I recently acquired a Reynard 93H Atlantic and I wanted some information on anything in particular I should look out for with this car. I owned a 75 Chevron for 20 years, and needless to say the Reynard is much newer technology. I plan on going through the car over the winter, and aside from the obvious of cleaning, inspecting, crack testing and painting, I was wondering if the more experienced members could help me out.

Charlie W.? Agnif? (I tried to call you at least 20 times but I guess you rarely answer the phone in your shop). Other Reynard owners?

Thanx much
tonyC

Tony, I'm not sure what number you were calling, but my phone rings off the hook most of the day! Call me anytime Mon-Sat (best in the afternoon) if you need any help.

Agnif
Stonebridge Sports and Classics ltd
(203)744-1120

[tonyc]

Thanks Mike.

Happy New Year!.
tc