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Thread: Fuel cell

  1. #1
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    Default Fuel cell

    Is there any way to test the fuel cell foam with out removing the cell? The foam that I can see and touch seems to be in good shape. I the 61 that I have the fuel filter is before the fuel pump.

    John Whitney

    Wis X 1/9
    &
    Lotus 61

  2. #2
    Senior Member JHaydon's Avatar
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    Default

    I don't know of any good test except age. Replacement foam is so cheap that I recommend replacing it after 5 years no matter how it looks.

    For that matter, if the age is unknown, it's still worth replacing.

    Here's my math.
    Replacement foam cost: $50-75 plus some of your time
    Potential cost of old foam breaking down: wasted entry fees, lost track time, wrecked fuel filter, clogged fuel pump, and clogged fuel lines. Sometimes the sludge can make it all the way into the carb. It could take several events to get it running properly.

    It's on my own to-do list for this winter.

    (The only way to test that I know of is to watch the fuel filter like a hawk. Unfortunately, by the time you see something, it's usually too late and you've already missed an event.)

  3. #3
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    Default A Little-Discussed Subject

    If the foam can break down, so can the fuel cell bladder...


    SCCA GCR, Sections 19 and 19.1
    |
    |
    |
    V
    FIA FT-3 (FIA FT3-1999, Section 2)
    (http://www.fia.com/resources/documen..._1999_tank.pdf)
    |
    |
    |
    V
    Oops!!!


    Think about more than just a clogged filter...

  4. #4
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    It's a big issue if it's an OEM tank with no cleanout plate. I replaced the foam in my 72 royale by turning the cell upside down and gradually pulling out chunks and cutting them off when I couldn't pull out any more. then push the foam back in, shake the cell a bit and grab another chunk. Bad news was having to cut the new foam up into little cubes and just stuffing as much in as would fit, you'll never get a good fit without a cleanout hole.

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
    -------you'll never get a good fit without a cleanout hole.
    Sorry Rick but I disagree. I emptied and restuffed the triangular cell on my old FF all through the 2" diam fuel filler neck. First remove the old stuff whatever way you need to. Then swill with water several times - this removes any debris and any remaining fuel - liquid or vapor. Finally to re-stuff cut the foam blocks into 2x2xwhatever. Mine came in 2x4x8 so that was easy. These blocks easily squeezed through the filler neck. I even cut some triangular ones for the bottom corner. The real trick is to lower a small light bulb on some wires so you can see inside and use a stick to poke the pieces into place. A good evening's fun! And it worked - that foam stayed in place for several years.

  6. #6
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    I agree with Dereklola. It can be done with a fairly good outcome with a little patience. I used a 3/8 or 1/2 inch dowel rod to push the pieces into place in the cell. Be sure to plan ahead with the foam that will be in the filler neck area. You will want to leave yourself a provision for dropping in a dipstick.

  7. #7
    Contributing Member RussMcB's Avatar
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    Something to think about: You may want to send the cell to someone (FuelSafe, ATL) and have them clean, inspect & check it. That would catch something like chafing about to wear through. I did this about 5-6 years ago and the price was reasonable. It will give you good piece of mind if you think you might be keeping the car for a while.
    Racer Russ
    Palm Coast, FL

  8. #8
    Senior Member JHaydon's Avatar
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    Default

    Good advice about the cell. Fuel Safe will inspect and even re-certify bladders. But they won't even inspect a cell that's more than 10 years old. If I remember correctly, their cutoff for recertification is 5 years.

    We recently found out that new formula car bladders weren't nearly as expensive as we had thought. Fuel Safe has some "standard custom" wedge designs, most of which are currently under $750. (When I first started racing I was hearing horror stories of $1500 cells PLUS $200-500 extra for a "design fee".)

    Their basic designs include a Lotus (51, we think), Crossle, Van Diemen, and a few basic wedges.

  9. #9
    Contributing Member Rick Kirchner's Avatar
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    I actually did the same thing Dereklola suggested, and it turned out OK, I just didn't considerit as good as what you could do through a cleanout plate.

    In 2000 I bought a cell for my Royale, and in 02 I bought one for the Van Dieman, and the manufacturers were,nt even keeping track of year, make, and model. they just listed the cell and kept the design info under the name of the guy that ordered it. The Van Dieman cell was an ATL and even with the part number, the USA ATL guys couldn't re-create a cell made by the brit ATL guys.

    I've heard that they've since discovered the wonderful world of computers and have a better database now so that you may not need to send your cell to them.

    The process is pretty interesting. They layout your cell in cardboard, a little smaller than actually needed, and then tape the parts together to make a cardboard box. then they stick the rubber layers to it, including the corner re-incorcements, etc. All that goes in an autoclave and gets cured. Then they throw the ting in a water tank to dissolve the cardboard, turn the cell inside out, and clean the cardboard out.

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