Rubber Donuts

[Harry L]

Ok Guys- what do you use to crunch down on the donut prior to removeing it from
the gearbox or halfshaft ? Regular hose clamps don't have the strengh.
Thanks,
Harry

[bob darcey]

Harry: If you are going to reuse the donuts, you probably don't need to do anything. The donuts take a "set" and are relatively easy the re-bolt on my car, except I always leave them connected to one flange or the other--no problem.

[Larry]

Does anyone have experience with the standard versus heavy-duty donuts? How long could I expect the standard to last versus the HD?

Larry Oliver
International Racing Products

[Hawke]

I'm unsure of other cars, but on mine, I use a 4' length of timber that I place between a frame member and the donut. I make sure that the timber is at 90 degrees to the bolt hole and lean on it. Bolt just drops in. If someone can tell me how to post a photo, I'll send one.

As far as life goes, I am informed that as long a you keep the sun, oil and solvents off them they will tend to last a long time. Mine are the heavy duty ones, and in the 8 race meetings and 18 months I've owned the car, there has been no deteriation.

[Goldie]

I've used gear clamps for years with no problem. Are you stripping the clamp or gear? Use a nut runner or rachet and socket to get them up tight. Best to put the clamping band on when the car is on the ground as when you raise the car the do-nut twists and is a real pain to band. And to Larry's question, I confess that I put over 30 weekends on a pair of standard ones that came with the car so who really knows how long they had been around. They were looking pretty used up when I replaced them but based on that evidence, I bought the standard ones again.

[Robert J. Alder]

To not replace these at least every couple of years and to not buy the heavy duty is just plain asking for trouble. Sure, they can last longer, and probably will, but . . . the consequences of them coming apart are WAY UGLY.

As to holding them, I've had success with hose clamps (if completely removing donut). They hold well enough. If just undoing three of the six bolts, I too simply use a lever under the rear cross member to push down on the donut so the bolt slides right out (or in).

There is one more trick, however, when re-installing. Stab the first bolt (Always easy!). Then use a drift or center punch to roughly align the second bolt hole & yoke. Now it's sort of stablized. Then rotate the third and last bolt to the top and use a lever (a large hammer handle works nicely) to push down on the donut and slip the third bolt in place. Having the drift in place keeps everything from moving around while stabbing the bolt. Then remove the drift, roll that hole to the top, lever down and stab it. Bingo. No clamping required.

[Harry L]

Bob,
Will try your method when I get back into town.
Good luck at PPIR this weekend. Watchout for
the Beauchamp group !!!!!!
Harry

[Goldie]

But Robert, if "WAY UGLY" is the concern, are donut savers not the best solution?

[bob darcey]

Agreed. The donut savers are great--they keep the shafts concentric and relieve a lot of stress on both driver and donut.

[Harry L]

Ok -I'll bite. What are donut savers ?
H

[Dan Schmutte]

Harry

Spend the money and buy the heavy duty donuts. I became a believer when I had a regular donut fail (less than a year old) while running the Bus Stop at Watkins Glen. The car swapped ends so fast I blinked and missed the whole thing. This was on a restart and needless to say, my fellow racers who also joined me in flying off the track did not appreciate my problem one bit.

I've had the heavy duty donuts in the Lola since then with no problems. The current ones are going on their third, and last, race season. I'll replace them this winter, but regular inspections show no cracks or other deterioration.


Dan

[Murray]

They fit on the outside and inside of the donut and one side has a socket and the other a pin that slips inside the socket. Should the donut fail they keep the halfshaft from flailing around and removing everything in the rear of the car (the "way ugly" part) Wayne Mitchell makes a nice set. You can reach him at [wtmitchell@worldnet.att.net] I think they are under $300 for the set and well worth the price. With those in place you inspect the donuts and replace when the rubber starts cracking with no danger of a failure destroying your car.

[Stu Pidd]

RE: donut Savers, More like frame savers ! the only way to fly, donuts may 'look' good but, they can just let go anyway......Britain West Motorsports has them in stock for around half of the price quoted above.
http://biznet.maximizer.com/britwest/

Ask for David, same day shipping

[Robert J. Alder]

What I should have said was that I replace donuts regularly with Heavy Duty ones AND I am now running the Wayne Mitchell "Donut Savers" (more correctly re-named as "Frame-Suspention-Everything Outboard Savers"} A belt AND suspenders ain't all that bad of an idea.

[Craig Jones]

I just called Britain West and David wasn't in, but Oliver said they are out of the frame protectors. They need to have their machinist make another batch of them. They are also out of donuts (but will have them in a couple weeks).

I note that the heavy duty donuts from Pegasus are $170 a piece. Let's see, $340 a pair, plus $300 for the Mitchell protectors, that's $640 plus tax and shipping!

I'm replacing my halfshafts so now would be time to replace the donuts and put on protectors, but has anyone had a heavy duty donut fail?

[Chris Campbell]

I also use Wayne's savers. There a well built piece. Having seen the results of a donut letting go I would highly recommend these units to anyone running rubber joints.
Besides Wayne's a solid good guy. Stands behind evrything he produces.

Okay, Okay, I need a pair for my newly acquired Crossle... He's still a stand-up guy

[Jerry B.]

Wayne's "Do-nut gizmos" can be seen at

dogrings.com

...along with neat acessories for your pooch.

[Wayne]

Wayne's gizmos, donut savers or centering devices now on sale at the rediculous price of $200 per set, a cars worth. no tax or shipping in stock, ship tomorrow or today before 3 PM. UPS ground included. No need to take axle off car,split the u/j or anthing like that or gearbox apart to get stub axle out. Large radiator clamps before you take the bolts out. Daisy chain smaller one to get them to fit. (kinky) Increase track 3/16" to accomodate thickness of plates. Cheers Wayne Mitchell Happy donuting.