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one of the original T-200''s - yes it has removable nose as in original F3 design - bracket for the front oil sump is there - this car is better than delivered new - HELP!!!!!! need to go to the DYNO shop - what fuel/air/emulsion jets do I need to start testing:cool:
not me, the following is baseline range:
main - between 165 and 180, secondary one size larger than primary
air correctors - 145 - 155 if no dump tubes, 170 - 180 if dump tubes, secondary one size smaller than primary
Emulsion tube - F6, F50, F66. Often F50 primary, F6 secondary. What's in there is probably fine.
Idle jets - 55/60. What's in there is probably fine, just make sure it isn't blocked if the car hasn't fun for a while.
Float level - 39 mm (1.535") from the bottom of the float to the gasket mating surface.
On the engine example in the dyno section, (PRIMARY/SECONDARY) Air - 180/175, fuel 175/185, emulsion F6/F6, timing 38 degrees. You could start with that, if your carb has dump tubes.
Brian
thanks Brian - will try this setup
Jim
James, You are working with a Origianal Cortina ??? With a 32-26 Carb ? Make sure carb is way fat...no need to poke hole in the pistons. on you second Dyno Pull.. JV
I tend to start with the jets that I think are right, but with less ignition timing than I expect I will need. I would warm the engine up and take a half-rpm pull to get to about 6K rpm, and make sure the mixture is safe before pulling hard. Then I add timing, then I go richer, only then do I go leaner. But I'm a chicken at heart...
Brian
Jim.
I have T-200 serial number 21 and have been running her for 4 years. They are great cars. Feel free to contact me at mchalmers@pollybutte.net if you have any questions or have trouble finding sources for parts. Murray Chalmers
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...pril2006-3.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimhillyer
Good job! Much better than it came out of the factory.
Thanks.:D ;)