Ralt Cut Off Switch Question??

Finishing up restoration of Ralt RT5-190!! I have the original style pull cable cut off switch in the car. Before I took the car apart, it worked.... but now back in the car it doesn't work. I must be missing a piece at the switch.? It appears that when you pull the switch there should be enough interferance to cause the switch (lucas) to rotate. I pull mine and there is no "grip"

Anyone familiar with the switch and what parts are involved, and what part I've lost???

Any help appreciated.

Thanks, Scott Sanders

Scot,

If you are talking about the cut-off switch being down near your left leg that is a standard Lucas cut-off switch. Remove the winged handle and the pivot piece will fit onto the shaft. Do not try to use the original switch. Buy several and replace them every year. Post a picture.

Hi Charlie,

I have a new switch. The problem is that the pull cable won't move the switch to off when in the on position. It did when I first had the car..... I must have lost a piece? When the switch is on, and you pull the handle, it is "free"

When the Lucas switch is turned on, it rotates downward and locks. I think it probably was a friction type thing, but I now have no friction. I fiddled with different sized washers and spacers to try to get some friction between the switch handle and the thin bracket that the cable is hooked to, but to no avail. Couldn'[t seem to get the right thickness...???

I'll try to get a pic posted.....

And BTW, I plan, over the winter to relocate the main switch or perhaps a secondary switch up under the dash, so I can reach it in the cockpit suring an emergency..... Nice to have the pull cable for a corner worker to pull, but the switch buried under my left leg is unaccessible to me while I'm "stuffed" into the car......!

Scott:

I did not experience your issue, however I would like to share an issue that gave my several headaches concerning the "cut off" switch. Seems the barcket that my "cut off" switch was mounted to was loose and would casue an intermittent electrtical failure! I noticed it one day while revvingmy car on the stands trying to diagnose why my car would just quit and then come back to life! I was revving the car and looked down into the cockpit and saw sparks between the "cut off" swtich bracket and the chassis.

Not the same problem as you are describing, but something I wanted to share.

1983 Ralt RT-5.

Aaron

During the restoration of my RT 5, I had the same problem. It was always "iffy". I must have replaced the Lucas switch on my Lola T440 at least 4 or 5 times over the last few years. So, , I would change to another manufactuer even if you don't decide to relocate the master switch. However, I decided to relocate the switch so that the handle was outside the rear of the cockpit bodywork, just in case the car ever ended up upside down. That way the safety workers could reach it before righting the car. Mounted it between the roll bar and the rear roll bar support and just drilled a small hole through the fiberglass. The key is wired to the car, so it is simply a matter of removing the key from the switch when removing the cockpit bodywork.

Hella makes a nice reliable switch