Balance bar assembly

Group, can anyone suggest a balance bar assembly that I can adapt to my MK10 LeGrand FF. Have nothing at the moment just about a 10 inch space between the pedal and the master cylinders.

Thanks

Mike Summers

Pegasus TE-72-260

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ke...=brake+balance

Averill Racing Stuff, Inc.
http://www.racing-stuff.com/master_c...rs.htm#Balance Bar

I have a question on the subject. When adjust the Pegasus part to the stated 2.5" Centerline, there is space between the clevis and pivot tube, which would allow the adjustment to move about 1/4" . I've always threaded them closer, so the clevis body basically rubs the end of the tube, without binding. How should they be adjusted? I can get some pictures to explain if needed.

Adjust the clevis(s) so that they touch the side of the tube just as you reach the maximun angle, ie, one master has failed while the other is providing pressure.
This is what a twin master system is designed to do, provide pressure to one circuit if the other fails.
If it touches too soon it will interfere with that process.

Thanks, I'll try that when I have it assembled. That will leave some "slack", but I guess in practice there is no problem with the pivot walking, and the bias varying?

Lots of options...

http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...=balance%20bar

John Mihalich, Jr.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stephen wilson

Thanks, I'll try that when I have it assembled. That will leave some "slack", but I guess in practice there is no problem with the pivot walking, and the bias varying?

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As long as the distance from the clevis to the "bearing" remains the same, the balance that you feel will not change. This little amount of slack around the tube in the pedal will have no "real world" effect on the type cars we drive.

Ah, brain fart. It doesn't matter where the pivot is in the tube, as long as the distance to the clevises doesn't change. Thanks !

Here ya go Mike Mike. I also have them in stock..
I also have some diagrams if you need them.

When running on pavement, you want the front tires to lock-up with
slightly less pedal pressure than the rears. This will help to keep the car
stable and prevent it from going into a spin.

1. Loosen both of the jam nuts on the adjusting shaft

2. Turn the adjusting shaft so that it advances the
spherical bearing closer to the selected master cylinder, increasing
the braking force produced by that master cylinder . The
balance bar must be adjusted with the pedal in the relaxed position

3. The balance bar has a large adjustment range. However, if you find
that what you need is outside of the adjustment range, you will need
to make a master cylinder bore size change. There are three possible
changes that can be made (See below). All changes will allow the
spherical joint to move back towards the center position.
a) Decrease the bore size of the master cylinder closest to the spherical
joint by 1/8". This will decrease the amount of pedal force
required from the foot and increase the amount of pedal travel.
b) Increase the bore size of the master cylinder farthest from the
spherical joint by 1/8". This will increase the amount of pedal force
required by the foot and decrease the amount of pedal travel.
c) Increase the bore size of the master cylinder farthest from the
spherical joint by 1/16". Decrease the other master cylinder bore
size by 1/16". This will maintain the amount of force or pedal travel.

4. When satisfied with the adjustment bar location and force distribution,
tighten the jam nut . A jam nut is not required
when a Remote Brake Bias Adjuster is used.
Force Distribution (2.5" Clevis Center-to-Center)
Spherical Joint Position Left Clevis Right Clevis

3/8" left-of-center 65% 35%
1/4" left-of-center 60% 40%
1/8" left-of-center 55% 45%
Centered 50% 50%
1/8" right-of-center 45% 55%
1/4" right-of-center 40% 60%
3/8" right-of-center 35% 65%