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I am considering getting a light, cheap trailer to pull a Swift DB1 behind a small SUV. Rock guard, maybe a small toolbox, nothing fancy. It seems the really light-duty stuff is built by the racers themselves, but I no longer have a shop or a MIG, so that option isn't available. Does anyone know of a supplier for something that fits my needs? {preferably in the deep south / Florida area]
Try tractor supply or some of the power sports dealers. Small light open trailers are very popular with the UTV off road crowd and most are wide enough for a FF.
Usually an interesting variety on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace. Lots of atv activity out West, don’t know about your area
My first race car was a Caldwell FV 1968 or earlier version. My tow vehicle was a 142 Volvo sedan.
The trailer built by Caldwell and was simplicity at its best. It was not sprung. The towing tung attached to the axle and allowed the bed to tilt to load the car.
The bed of the trailer was just big enough to allow the 4 wheels to fit on the trailer and you tied the car down at the 4 corners to the trailer bed. The "axle" axle was a 4" or or close to that, square steel tube. The ends of the tube were capped so that you could use a VW front spindle, with the steering arms cut off, would bolt through from the inside. This was a great feature because the race car wheels and tires could be used for spares, if needed.
In those years I was stupid enough to occasionally tow that rig at close to 100 mph. It was very stable and the total weight of the trailer and car were about as light as you could make for not much money.
My trailer is an open, single drop axle design. It has slide out ramps. I use it to haul formula Atlantic cars since 1983. Bed is 68" by 12'. I like single axle because you can move it around the driveway by hand. Drop axle makes the bed low and easy to load. It came with a 2000# 6" drop axle (super low!) but when that axle bent from overloading it with 2500# cars, I replaced it with a #3500, 4" drop axle.Quote:
Originally Posted by swiftdrivr
It has a tool box in the front. I guess you would have to custom build one if I had to replace it.
I have a trailer very similar to what Lathrop mentioned above. Single axle with no springs, and often towed near the century mark back in the day...
My dad took an unused horse trailer* we had and had a local shop strip off the upper bits and reconfigure the rest for a very light FV trailer. I still have it and have added some removable sides to make it a useful utility trailer.
Ed Zink designed what I thought was the best FV trailer, and would work for a FF with mods to the spacing. But I'll never find my plans again I'm afraid.
I would start with a single axle utility trailer if I were doing it today. Light and affordable.
*1953 model, same year I was born, built with 3/4 ton Chevy truck bearings, drums, and wheels including the hubcaps :)
I'd recommend checking out local trailer dealers or even online marketplaces like Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for a light and affordable trailer. You might find some good deals in the Florida area. Also, consider asking around at auto parts stores or RV dealerships for recommendations.
There are several custom trailer companies in the South Georgia area. Found this one on Google.
Superior Trailers of Georgia
Phone: (706) 795-3429
Email: superiorga@windstream.net
https://www.superiortrailersofga.com
Address
3785 Highway 29 North
Danielsville, GA 30633
Business Hours
Mon - Fri: 8:00am – 4:00pm
Good luck.
R/--
Harry
CFR FV#77
Be careful if you are considering one of those S. Ga trailer places. Their 'parent' companies are all located in OTHER STATES .. so their prices SEEM good relatively -but it's because they don't charge GA SALES TAX on their products. That means that YOU will find out, when you go to buy your tag, that YOU now owe the additional amount that you 'saved' by buying there. I can't remember HOW I know that ..
Of course, if you are already out of state, it makes no difference.. you still have to pay YOUR state tax when you get your tag.
Also, they tend to 'forget' some of your selected options (like 0.030 sides instead of 0.020) and you really can't tell.. until you tear a hole in it somewhere. I had to call the 'boss' out and have 3 things ''fixed" on my trailer - things I selected when I placed my order (things that were certainly on my invoice), but had been 'forgotten' during the build. Be sure you check all that you can.
Steve
PS.. Superior noted above is NOT one of the ones I'm referring to - those down below Macon. Superior is just down the street from me and I have dealt with them a few times on parts. But, pretty sure they build ONLY open trailers. Never seen an enclosed other than a used trade in on their lot.
I did a day trip to see several of these south Georgia builders when I was shopping for a new trailer.Quote:
Originally Posted by HB280ZT
I urge you to see them in person before buying.
(I shopped elsewhere...)
If you do go with a open/utility trailer and have the opportunity- have the axle moved rearward so you can put the car on facing forward. 'Gotta have that tongue weight!
Also a longer distance between the hitch ball and the axle will make the trailer inherently more stable and reduce the pendulum effect.Quote:
Originally Posted by DSR3
Seems like no love here for the South Georgia trailers, but I have been pleased with my V-nose Cynergy trailer. I custom ordered a 8.5' x 16' length, which is ideal for my formula car with a descent size tool chest parked in the V-nose and a 60" extended tongue. My Jeep V-8 SUV tows it easily, without any stability issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by swiftdrivr