Hawke - front stub axle, retaining circlip

My 50 year old Hawke DL11, has lost one of its circlips that prevent the front stub axle from coming out of the upright. Of course, it cant, as the brake disk is surrounded by the caliper. However, what it did, was push out the inner wheel bearing, so ultimalty the bearing could become detached, which would not improve my afternoon. It also gave me a braking issue, as the disk would just move from side to side.

I would suggest that using a circlip to hold an axle in place is a pretty poor design. Any ideas to improve?

At least in the 23 years I've been racing this car, it's the first time this has happened.

How is the condition of the ciorclip groove? Is it nice and square with the corners still sharp? If not you may have a case of a good design just worn out.

It lasted 20+ years for you. I would say that it is a pretty good design. Given the real estate that you have to work with I do not have any bright ideas to improve it however.

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Originally Posted by Steve Demeter

How is the condition of the ciorclip groove? Is it nice and square with the corners still sharp? If not you may have a case of a good design just worn out.

It lasted 20+ years for you. I would say that it is a pretty good design. Given the real estate that you have to work with I do not have any bright ideas to improve it however.

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Steve, all looks good. The only thing I was looking at was to use a long 3/8 bolt, and big washers from the wheel side, to cover the inner race of the inner bearing, so if the circlip failed again, at least the axle could not move far, and the inner bearing could not be driven out. Perhaps, I'm over thinking it.

Belt and suspenders. If it can all fit in there sounds like a great idea!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hawke

My 50 year old Hawke DL11, has lost one of its circlips that prevent the front stub axle from coming out of the upright. Of course, it cant, as the brake disk is surrounded by the caliper. However, what it did, was push out the inner wheel bearing, so ultimalty the bearing could become detached, which would not improve my afternoon. It also gave me a braking issue, as the disk would just move from side to side.

I would suggest that using a circlip to hold an axle in place is a pretty poor design. Any ideas to improve?

At least in the 23 years I've been racing this car, it's the first time this has happened.

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Also check the "eared" retaining rings themselves for best orientation when installing. Because they are typically stamped out of sheet stock, one side of the ring will have a quite sharp 90 degree edge, other side slightly rounded by distortion as the punch penetrates the stock. I think it best to put the "sharp edge" facing away from the bearing race to have maximum ring area mating with the groove shoulder where the thrust load is reacted against.

McMaster-Carr carries spiral retaining rings (thrust loads below are for fitment to 1.25 inch diameter shaft where "eared" retaining ring has 7460 lb. thrust load capability)--

Standard strength (7770 lb. thrust load) --- https://www.mcmaster.com/products/re...ining-rings-6/

Heavy-duty (8250 lb. thrust load) --- https://www.mcmaster.com/products/retaining-rings/heavy-duty-spiral-external-retaining-rings/

Lee

Hawke --

I didn't pay attention to your location when I posted this. McMaster-Carr will serve for reference info. I am sure you know (or will find) suppliers of spiral retaining rings in Australia!!

:o Lee :o